Long, slow boat ride to Laos, part III--Day 2

It is interesting how a culture has developed on our tourist boat. We left Chiang Mai in groups of 9 on mini-buses and saw each other at many of the same stops along the way. Joined into groups of about 30 at our respective guest houses at the boarder town of Chiang Hong, then conglomerated into two sets of 100 on each of the 2 slow boats traveling down-river that day. Everyday, 200 tourists are shuttled down the Mekong from Chiang Hong to Luang Prabang...The process runs very smoothly, though we broke down twice and I glimpsed a Lao man in his skivvies contemplating the engine, wrench in hand, on more than one occasion. I suspect more energy and maintenance goes into keeping us moving than we tourists realize. In Prabang (the half-way stop on the two day boat journey), we 200 join together to wander the streets and select food and housing for the night, then the first 100 early birds (of which I am one, believe it or not!) get on another boat and continue the journey. 6 hours or so the first day, about 8 the second, we had plenty of time to get to know one another. Cards were played, guidebooks exchanged, beer consumed in mass quantities...good times, good times.

Upon arrival in Luang Prabang, many of us swap e-mails and wish each other safe travels. We shoulder our bags and trudge up the banks through crouds of hopeful tuk-tuk drivers and guesthouse employees, hooking for tourists. Guest house prices are quoted at $30, $10, $8...Phaeng phot! (too expensive) I walk on. Wandering the streets, I discover LP is basically the same as any other south-east asian city, though on a considerably smaller scale than many in Thailand, and I am ready to leave as soon as I arrive. The wat's are gorgeous and women sell gorgeous silk at the night market. Stunningly ornate carvings in wood and animal horns lay on blankets next to intricate silver jewelery and beadwork. I try to ask one girl where her goods are made, but I did not copy that phrase from my friend's Lonely Planet and do not succeed in learning where she's from. I found a guest house for $4 (bargained down from $5) and checked in. Then I wandered into an Eco-Tourism office and asked if it is possible to hire a boat to head down river and go village hopping. He said it should be no problem, just go down and ask at the boat docks. Nice. He also said you can't really buy touring bicycles in this country...they get their rental bikes either from China, or travelers that come to the end of their journey and want to sell them. I wonder if I can hook up a deal like that somehow? I have seen 3 cycle-tourists so far. One I talked to said he's having an amazing time. His bike was loaded onto the ferry boat just like any other piece of luggage. I wonder if bus travel is possible? anyway, all this is future speculation and my eyelids are drooping (nearly 11PM). Bed beckons. More exploring and traveling tomorrow.