Luang Prabang to Pak Lay to Vientiane on the River

This trip was perhaps not the most prudent endeavor I've ever undertaken, but the result was good, so that justifies the expense and the risk, right? I was confronted by my own naivete in some ways, and pleasantly enough found strength underneath it. Let me get to the story...

I am in Laos and it is amazing...85% of this population is still village-style agrarian. I just spent about 7 days on the Mekong river from the boarder to the capital, 4 of which were in a little fishing-boat (about 20-30' long and 2' wide) with my own 24-year-old guide (who had built the boat by himself!) named Air, boating by day, cooking and sleeping on the river's beach by night--$150 plus $15 for food and $8 bank fees to get the $150...thus the expense. (Comparing 4-day guided river trips in Vientiane, it seems I got an ok deal)

The first night, we pulled onto an empty beach and I watched as Air weaved 9 sticks into a lean-to and covered the top with old rice-bags for a shelter. For our bed, Air laid the slatted wooden floor boards of the boat in a jigsaw puzzle on the sand and spread a beach mat and two blankets on top. He lit the charcoal cook fire with a candle and we fried some fish in a wok. Delicious! I slept fitfully in a strange environment, uncomfortably close to this stranger with questionable feeling intentions. Later that night, we saw some sort of black cat, about the size of a bobcat, meowing insistently for our fish leftovers. Deterred by the flashlight, Air decided not to shoot it (eep! I'm sleeping next to a stranger with a gun under his pillow??? oh boy.). The second day, we used the engine very little and just enjoyed floating with the current to save fuel and relax in the peace and quiet. Since the road was improved a few years ago, the Mekong from Luang Prabang to Vientiane is no longer a main transport route. Now, she is largely traveled by locals transporting goods, little fishing crafts such as the one I hired, and the occasional houseboat--enormous ships by comparison, with 100' long decks for cargo in front and two story houses on the back.

We floated by several villages I was hoping to visit, but Air said they are greedy and he was afraid if we stopped, they would steal his petrol. I understood and figured he knew better than I, yet as we began to look for camp I became perturbed. It seems in Air's world, everyone is a threat! How sad for him, I feel, yet I also was feeling ripped off as village visiting was something he promised when I agreed to pay him $150 for this trip! He explained the next day that there are people from a different tribe farther down river that are kind that we could stop at, so my worries were eased.

We stopped at a few villages--one to buy sticky rice and another so I could see their school--and I took a bunch of pictures. The people were hesitant about me at first, but very curious. A few women waved me over and we smiled together and talked in our own languages...A crowd of children began to gather and soon 5-7 women and about 20 children from infants to 12 year olds had come together to stare at me. I pulled out my digital camera and they laughed and laughed when I showed them their pictures on the tiny digital screen!

Back on the river, satisfied by my visit, I noticed Air seemed a bit edgey. I asked him why...apparently he thought I was going to sleep with him (thus my naivete), and he was mistaken. There were some hard feelings when we talked about our culture's differing opinions on sexuality. Apparently for him, the trip is unlucky and creates danger since we didn't sleep together. I tried to explain in my culture, it's generally frowned upon to sleep with someone the day you meet them and that whether we slept together or not had nothing to do with his safety. It was a rather heated debate, but we worked it out. He cut his knee superficially the evening of the third day and suddenly seemed much more chipper. I did not understand his shift in attitude until he explained that the cut had let out the danger and everything bad he was afraid of was gone. I do not think it really makes a difference, but his superstitions were satisfied and we had a great time the last day.

Pak Lay proved to be a charming little town that sees few foreigners. I had a great time buying sticky rice, noodles, and bananas at the market, exercising my limited Laos and being led around by laughing, helpful women in my search for khao neeo. I checked into my $3 guesthouse, plugged Air's cell phone in to charge, and went down to the boat for one last meal with my guide. The next morning, I awoke early, checked out and walked about town. The locals were very friendly and most of the packs of children riding their bikes to school returned my greetings and waves. I stopped by a Wat where the monks were having breakfast from their morning's alms and the novices all gathered together to stare at me. Uncertain if I was welcome or not and obviously disturbing the flow of the morning, I shyly retreated. Wandering the back "streets" (ie narrow dirt paths) among local's houses, I was greeted with amused smiles and laughter. Got some great photos of real Laos life, though a beautiful woman in her 20's declined my request to take her picture rocking her baby in a bamboo cradle hung from the ceiling of her front porch.

These wanderings took up most of my spare time, so I headed back to the main road towards the boat docks. I stopped at a little noodle stand and ordered noodle soup to go. They laughed and laughed as I tried to explain vegetarian as she fished around in her pot amongst various animal parts and entrails...When I got out my money to pay, a man standing over my shoulder took my wallet and studied my Utah ID (pigtails and all). I was not worried in the least. We parted with smiles all around and I went and boarded the boat for Vientiane, paying nearly double the local fare I had been told and was expecting, but a dollar off the usual falang price (wound up $11).

I am now in Vientiane (Laos's capital). My first impression was that this is just another SE Asian city, and I wanted out as soon as I arrived. On the truck/taxi ride from the boat-port to town center (about 10km) I was feeling committed to leaving ASAP. I was expecting guest houses to run $8-30, but I found one for only 15,000 Kip ($1.50, lol)! and sushi around the corner for $1.50-2.50/roll! amazing wood/carved/silversmithed/woven goods, including a silk weaving store where I can watch the weavers work tomorrow...live music(!!) at a club near the river I hope to check out tonight, English teacher jobs posted in lots of internet store windows (I think it's the same flier, but still), furnished 2-3 bedroom houses for rent for $250/month! and the city just has a good vibe from what I've picked up walking around so far. I may spend longer than I thought here (especially since the bus to Savannakit leaves at 8:30 and arrives at 2:30AM, yuck! I was hoping for a boat, but they said there isn't one...). I highly recommend checking out Laos if any of you get the chance. Good vibes. Caveat: this writing is based on a rush of energy from about 30 minutes of walking aimlessly and finding tons of cool stuff. I may have a different opinion tomorrow.